I've wondered this myself. You could replace * with a constant, something like 'count(1)', or maybe just select an indexed column rather than *, i.e. count(indexed_column).
I tend to use count(*) or count(1), depending on which way the wind is blowing.
I've read articles that say that any one of the 3 concepts is the best but nothing to date has convinced me.
Maybe someone in this forum could enlighten us?